The Best India Itinerary For 3 Wonderful Weeks
This guide will walk you through our tried and tested India itinerary over a 3-week period. India was the first stop on our six-month trip around Asia, and wow did we throw ourselves in at the deep end. We absolutely loved our time here but we were completely taken by surprise. We were expecting danger and dirt but instead, we were met with astonishing architecture, mouth-watering street food and so much diversity. Although we only saw a small corner of the country!
India is a country full of colour, vibrance, flavour, culture, kindness and cows. It can be an assault on the senses whilst also being the most magical place you have ever been.
Please keep reading to see how we spent an amazing three weeks in India as well as some useful answers to important questions.
Note this could also be shortened to a 2-week India itinerary if you reduced your time in Mumbai, Udaipur and Delhi.
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Contents
- How long should you spend in India?
- How to get to India
- What do I need to get into India?
- How do you get around India?
- Our India Itinerary
- What to do with the extra days?
- What should I wear in India?
- Do I need a SIM Card?
- What are the people like in India?
- What is the food like in India?
- Are there really that many cows?
Essential Travel Tools
Flights: Skyscanner
Transport: 12GoAsia
Accommodation: Booking.com
Tours: Viator/Klook
Car hire: Discover Cars
How long should you spend in India?
This is a really hard question to answer because it really depends on what you want to see and do. If you just want a taste of India, 2-3 weeks is reasonable to experience a very small part of this wide and varied country. However, you could really spend months in India and there will still be so much to see. Personally, we feel our 3-week India itinerary gave a great balance of sightseeing and downtime, however, if you are pushed for time you could trim it into a 2-week India itinerary.
How to get to India
We flew in a kind of disjointed way in order to save money on flights. Using Skyscanner we were able to break down the journey to find cheaper flights first by flying from Birmingham to Budapest (where we got engaged!), then from Budapest to Abu Dhabi and finally to Mumbai. Direct flights are also available.
We chose to start in Mumbai as we felt this would give us less of a culture shock being introduced to this new country, but also we found this to be where the cheapest flights were. It was also better for us to finish in New Delhi for its excellent links to other parts of Asia.
What do I need to get into India?
As of October 2022, for India, you will need a passport with at least six months of validity, a visa and your COVID Vaccination Certificate.
Most countries are able to apply for an e-visa online, however, as we are from the UK, we had to apply for the visa in person.
Our Visa Experience
Our experience felt a little bizarre. Firstly we had to fill in an application form at VFS Global that asked many questions including occupation, parents’ occupations, whether we had any relations in Pakistan etc. You are then supposed to upload a passport photo to that form, although one of us didn’t and we didn’t have any issues.
Next, you book an appointment at your local VFS Global Centre. We booked a specific time and arrived early as suggested in our invitation letter however there was a queue outside that meant we missed our timeslot (again, this didn’t really matter).
Once inside the centre, somebody at the front desk checked our application forms, and invitation letter and asked for a photocopy of our passports. They do have a printer there but it wasn’t working and they charge to use it so take one with you if you can. We were then given a number and waited to be called to a desk.
When called, we gave two India Visa passport photos along with our application forms and passports. Those Indian photos are specific dimensions that are different to the usual passport photo size, don’t get caught out and make sure you have these done ahead of time.
We then paid nearly £300 for two 1-year multi-entry, tourist visas (we weren’t asked what we wanted), our passports were thrown in a box along with hundreds of others and we were told we would receive them in the post in 14 days’ time – we were leaving in 16 days so the anxiety was high.
The passports did arrive via tracked delivery 7 days later to our relief with our visas stuck inside and bam, that was it.
How do you get around India?
We used a mix of transportation during our trip to India. Between cities, you can fly, get the train or get the bus. All of these options provide quite the adventure.
India Itinerary: Travelling between cities
Flying
Flying is obviously the quickest way to get around but it is usually the most expensive. If you are time sensitive but have some room in your budget, you may choose to fly more and possibly see more.
Trains
Overall, the train was our favourite way to travel through India. By using the 12go.asia we were able to easily secure our train tickets. Using this site was slightly more expensive but definitely worth it after the many failed attempts to use the India Railway Website. We experienced third-class AC and Chair Class AC, both of which were fine. Chair Class was a little nicer with plenty of legroom, however, third class AC gave us the chance to lie down and get some much-needed sleep.
Buses
We used redBus to book our bus between Udaipur and Jodhpur. The bus actually arrived early and was a sleeper bus. This meant we had a private compartment with a double mattress although it was clear somebody had just vacated the same bed just before we got on. We used our own travel pillows and pushed the blanket to the bottom of the bed but other than that we were fine and managed to get some sleep.
India Itinerary: Travelling within cities
Travelling within the cities usually means private taxis, Uber, tuk-tuks or even metros. There are also public buses but as we didn’t use these, we can’t really comment on them.
When it comes to tuk-tuks, most cities have Uber where you can book tuk-tuks so you can use the Uber price to negotiate a more fair price. It’s worth accepting that you will likely be ripped off but when it comes down to it, it’s usually just pence for us.
Our India Itinerary
With our India itinerary, our aim was to not feel rushed and to have more than one day in each city in case we are ill or tired. Consequently, foresight was our best friend here as our first days in Mumbai and Jodhpur were absolute write-offs.
As it was our first time in India, we decided to go the route most travelled which meant exploring Rajasthan and the Golden Triangle. This gave us more certainty in terms of transportation and more information about what to expect. One tuk-tuk driver described our India itinerary as “Indian breakfast” because we were seeing so little of the country in a relatively short amount of time.
India Itinerary: Mumbai – 4 days
Mumbai is one of the largest cities in India and was one of our favourite spots on our trip. It felt like the perfect introduction to India as it was more cosmopolitan and the Victorian, gothic architecture was absolutely exquisite.
Where to stay in Mumbai
We stayed at Bed and Breakfast Colaba which is located in the south of Mumbai in the Colaba area. It has amazing value compared to the other hotels in the area and offers large rooms, private bathrooms, breakfast and most importantly, fast WIFI and aircon. It is also really close to some of the best things to see in Mumbai
India Itinerary: Mumbai Highlights
- Sunset walk along Marine Drive
- Taj Mahal Palace Hotel
- Gateway of India
- Elephanta Island and Caves
- Girgaon Chowpatty
For more highlights, check out our guide on the best things to do in Mumbai or our Mumbai, India 3 day itinerary
India Itinerary: Udaipur – 3 days
Udaipur, the White City of Rajasthan, is one of the most romantic places on this planet. Watching the sunset each night behind the mountains from the ghats or a rooftop bar was magical. There was never a bad sunset.
Where to stay in Udaipur
We stayed at Little Peepal House in the old city of Udaipur and found this to be the perfect base. The beds were so comfortable, the views from the rooftop were breathtaking and the homemade curries were truly delicious.
The Old City is the ideal place to base yourself to be close to the best attractions. There is loads of accommodation to choose from but we recommend finding somewhere with a rooftop to take in those incredible Indian sunsets. On the Gangaur Ghat side of the lake you will enjoy views of the mountains and across the lake, whereas, on the Ambrai Ghat side, you will have views of the City Palace, neither is a bad choice.
India Itinerary: Udaipur Highlights
- City Palace
- Gangaur Ghat
- Jagdish Temple
- Lake Pichola
Read about what we got up to in Udaipur in our “2 days in Udaipur, India” itinerary.
India Itinerary: Jodhpur – 2 days
India’s blue city of Jodhpur brings the dry heat of the Thar desert. Apparently, that’s actually a reason why the houses are painted blue, to help cool the city by reflecting the heat. Jodhpur is a beautiful city that continues the laid-back vibes of Udaipur. Whilst there aren’t many things to do here, we still recommend two days so you can take your time and appreciate the city.
Where to stay in Jodhpur
We stayed at Krishna Prakash Heritage Haveli Hotel which had an excellent rooftop restaurant with a view of the fort that lit up at night. We found the location to be perfect as it was only a short 10-minute walk to the fort and stepwell as well as being surrounded by blue houses for those Instagrammable snaps.
India Itinerary: Jodhpur Highlights
- Mehrangarh Fort
- Jodhpur Stepwell
- Tour the Blue City
We also have a “One Day in Jodhpur” guide that’s definitely worth checking out.
India Itinerary: Jaipur – 3 days
As we visited India in October, we were lucky enough to be in Jaipur on Diwali and let’s just say “wow”. Jaipur knows how to celebrate. The streets were all decorated with coloured tinsel, buildings were covered in fairy lights and fireworks lit up the night sky. It was an incredible event to be a part of.
Jaipur is famously known as the Pink City of Rajasthan. It hasn’t always been pink, however. In 1876, Maharaja Ram Singh painted the city pink, the colour of hospitality, to welcome Queen Victoria’s son, Prince Albert, during an official visit to India. The dusty pink hue makes this city an Instagrammer’s paradise, with countless photo opportunities.
Where to stay in Jaipur
We stayed at Hotel Ramsingh, which was right by the Metro line to connect us quickly to the Pink City. The hotel has a large rooftop restaurant and even had a rooftop pool, which provided excellent views of the Diwali fireworks. This was also the first place we came across that had filtered water fountains.
India Itinerary: Jaipur Highlights
- Hawa Mahal
- Tattoo Cafe
- City Palace
- Jantar Mantar Astronomical Park
- Amber/Amer Fort
- Panna Meena ka Kund Stepwell
- Raj Mandir Cinema
India Itinerary: Agra – 2 days
Agra is famously home to one of the wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal. That’s as much justification as we needed to put it in our itinerary and we have no regrets. The Taj Mahal is one of the most incredible sights and experiences we have encountered. Nothing can prepare you for seeing it in person. Whilst there isn’t much else going on in Agra, we gave it two days so as not to be rushing around.
Where to stay in Agra
We stayed in Hotel Sheela which was perfectly located next to the Taj Mahal’s East Gate and foreigner ticket office and we were especially grateful for that when our alarm went off at 4.30 for sunrise.
India Itinerary: Agra Highlights
- The Taj Mahal (obviously)
- Agra Fort
- Mehtab Bagh
Read more about what we got up to in our Agra post here.
India Itinerary: Delhi – 4 days
Delhi, India’s capital is claimed to be the most chaotic assault to the senses a traveller will get. We will admit that we were nervous to get there, however, what we found was a city that charmed us. Delhi is easy to get around thanks to the metro, has many breathtaking buildings from temples to tombs and offers a variety that other cities do not. We recommend splitting your days between old, new and south Delhi to get a proper feel for this city’s vibrance.
Where to stay in Delhi
We stayed at Heistel Delhi in South Delhi which we found to be well-connected to the Metro. However, as it is a hostel, it was quite noisy but very reasonably priced. Most people recommend Saket or Hauz Khas as good areas to stay for a more chilled stay. Alternatively, you could stay in Old Delhi’s backpacker area, Paharganj, but we hadn’t read the best reviews so decided to avoid there.
India Itinerary: Delhi Highlights
- Humayun’s Tomb
- Lodhi Gardens
- Red Fort
- Chandi Chowk
- India Gate
Our Delhi itinerary offers many more suggestions of things to do and places to eat, so definitely have a read.
India Itinerary Total = 18 days
Yes, we know this doesn’t add up to the total three weeks, so…
What to do with the extra days in your India Itinerary?
There are so many options on how to spend the extra 3 days of your India itinerary. Here are just a few suggestions:
India Itinerary Option 1 – Varanasi
Varanasi is known as one of the oldest living cities on Earth. Located in the north of India on the banks of the river Ganges, it is the ultimate pilgrimage stop for Hindus. Famously where Hindus choose to be burnt after death, Varanasi can provide travellers with experiences they will never forget. Just remember to always be alert and respectful.
Getting to Varanasi is possible by train from most major cities such as Agra and Delhi. It also has an airport if you are short on time.
Varanasi Highlights
- Sunrise on the river Ganges
- Explore the ghats
- Tour the labyrinth of streets
India Itinerary Option 2 – Rishikesh
Famously visited by The Beatles, Rishikesh is Northern India’s spiritual place to find some zen. If busy Varanasi isn’t your vibe but you still want to see the river Ganges, Rishikesh might be the answer. Whether it’s soul-searching, nature or adventure you are after, there’s no doubt that you will find it in Rishikesh.
Rishikesh does not have a train station so you have to get the train to Haridwar and continue on by taxi. Alternatively, you can get a 13-hour bus from Delhi.
Rishikesh Highlights
- Visit an ashram
- Relax on the riverside beaches
- Get spiritual with yoga and mediation
- Go rafting on the Ganges
India Itinerary Option 3 – Amritsar
Located in the northwestern state of Punjab, Amritsar offers travellers butter-abundant dishes, rich culture and religious experiences. Amritsar is the centre of Sikhism and is home to the famous Golden Temple. Here, the lungar halls feed 100,000 people a day from all religions and backgrounds, all managed by volunteers – a truly remarkable experience to witness.
Amritsar is also 25km away from the India/Pakistan border where there is a nightly ceremony for closing the gates. It’s incredibly entertaining as both nations lower their flags and close the gates in a dance-off-style event.
Travel to Amritsar from Delhi is less than six hours by direct train. It is also possible to get there by air and bus.
Amritsar Highlights
- The Golden Temple
- India/Pakistan Border
- Jallianwala Bagh
India Itinerary Option 4 – Jaisalmer and Pushkar
Instead of tagging somewhere at the end of your itinerary, you could add a couple of stops in the middle. The most popular stops to include are Jaisalmer and Pushkar. After Jodhpur you would travel by train to Jaisalmer, to experience the Thar Desert, before continuing inland to Pushkar and on to Jaipur.
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan’s Golden City, has a huge golden fort and buildings carved of yellow-brown sandstone – hence the name. It literally looks like a city made of sandcastles. Once an important stop on the Silk Road, Jaisalmer is still a popular spot for merchants and traders to sell their goods to willing tourists. This is also a popular place to start a desert safari. Whether via camel or jeep, you will be transported to a desert camp where you can enjoy a night under the stars.
Pushkar is a small city built around a sacred lake 450 km away from Jaisalmer. A popular spot on the Hippie Trail, Pushkar attracts spiritual visitors whilst Hindus consider it an important pilgrimage spot. It is also famous for its annual camel festival where camel and cattle traders do business before the “show” begins. The show is camel races, Rajasthani wrestling, and amusement rides just to name a few!
Jaisalmer and Pushkar Highlights
- Desert safari
- Jaisalmer Fort
- Pushkar Camel Festival
What should I wear in India?
India is a country that is very conservative and it is important to be respectful. Further, as there are a lot of mosquitoes, you will generally want to be covered up to protect yourself.
Therefore we suggest for men; long trousers and t-shirts, we rarely saw anybody in shorts and when we did, they stuck out like a sore thumb.
For women; long flowy clothes so you don’t get too hot but make sure your shoulders and knees are covered and nothing is too low cut. Indian men have a reputation for staring and if you are more exposed, it tends to attract more unwanted attention.
We both took trainers and sandals to India but found we only wore our trainers outside of our accommodation. The streets are dirty with litter and faeces and we just preferred to have closed-toe shoes on when walking around day to day.
Do I need a SIM Card?
In short, yes. Whilst most hotels and restaurants have WiFi, it is still useful to be able to get online whenever, wherever. We chose to get a SIM card from Airtel which had excellent coverage, including when we were on the trains and is one of the best providers in India.
After landing at Mumbai airport we went to the Airtel desk after baggage claim where we paid Rs 2,000 (£20) for 2 SIM cards on a 1.5GB of data a day, 28-day package. We found this to be plenty for using Google Maps, booking Uber and browsing social media. The Airtel desk was cash only so make sure you have some notes on you beforehand. We also had to show our passports and take some photos in order to get the SIMs.
There is definitely an Airtel desk at Delhi Airport however, we’re uncertain about any other airport. SIM cards can also be purchased through your hotel or hostel if you ask them for help, or from some local shops that advertise they have SIMs available.
What are the people like in India?
We had read and heard a few horror stories before we went to India so to say we were anxious was an understatement. However, we were pleasantly surprised by our experience. Everybody we spoke to was lovely, and nobody was particularly pushy or grabbing at us. The majority of our interactions were with people asking us where we were from and whether we liked India.
However, please be careful. Keep your bags and valuables in sight. We even padlocked our bags when leaving the hotel rooms. If somebody was talking to us or taking pictures with us, I kept my handbag in front of me with my hands covering the clasp although nothing happened.
Undoubtedly, you will get asked for many selfies. There wasn’t one place on our trip that was worse than the other. During the selfies, people just stood next to us without putting their arms around us, which was great because it’s not nice to be touched by strangers. We chose to say yes to the selfies and it was okay for us. If you feel overwhelmed or uncomfortable, of course, you can say no. We even heard some Westerners jokingly charge for a selfie which soon put people off.
Overall, we would say we had a great experience with the people in India. Nothing scary or uncomfortable happened. Ultimately, we were met with curiosity and smiling faces.
What’s the food like in India?
Indian food is more than just curries and naan. Yes, there are many different curries and the naan is absolutely delicious but there are also other different breads such as chapati, roti, and parantha. Pani puri is the ultimate crunchy snack. A cup of masala chai is the perfect way to start the day with its warming spices. Vada pav is the mashed potato burger you didn’t know you needed in your life.
If you struggle with the chilli heat, and sometimes ordering non-spicy still means some heat, then we recommend asking for some raita or plain curd to accompany your meal.
How to avoid Delhi Belly
Delhi Belly, or traveller’s diarrhoea, is a genuine concern when travelling to India and we will be honest, we got it. Although our case was quite mild compared to some.
When it comes to avoiding Delhi Belly we recommend finding the places to eat with the most positive reviews. Think a high number of reviews and 4+ star ratings. Also, look for places that have a big queue of people or where you can see the food being prepared and it’s piping hot. It is also worth checking if they use mineral water to wash ingredients.
Are there really that many cows?
We encountered a fair number of cows walking, standing, sleeping and eating in the streets everywhere we went. You’ll find you have to skirt past them.
There are also goats, cats and many stray dogs. Unfortunately, it’s safer for you not to fuss with them to avoid rabies, ticks etc. In our experience, they weren’t too bothered by human interaction anyway. Although it does mean you spend a lot of time looking down to avoid any animal droppings.
Thank you for reading our 3-week India itinerary. Before you go, why not check out our other India posts for more travel inspiration:)
- The Best 10 Things To Do in Mumbai, India
- 3 days in Mumbai, India: The Ultimate Itinerary
- Our 2-day Itinerary in Beautiful Udaipur, India
- Jodhpur, India: How to Explore the Blue City in One Day
- How To Spend One Day In Agra, India
- Delhi, India: The Best 3-Day Itinerary
Let us know in the comments box below if you have any further suggestions 🙂
